SAGADA

A day after my last final exam, my friend Kristin and I went to Sagada. The long bus trip was worth it. I did not mind seating still for about 11 hours!

I guess we were so excited to go to Sagada that we arrived 30 minutes or more, earlier at the Banaue-bound bus terminal. 20 minutes after the scheduled time of departure, we boarded the bus that will take us to the home of the centuries old rice terraces- Banaue. Our bus departed Manila at around 30 minutes past 10 in the evening. As there was nothing else to do but sleep, I tried to catch some zzzzzzsssss. But I kept on waking up every time I hear the screeching sound of the brakes as the driver stepped on the brakes. I guess he was maneuvering a curve. I woke up at around 5 am to the foggy sight of the mountains! It was like riding a bus in the clouds! I marveled at the sight of the rocky mountains on my right and to the planes and rice terraces on my left.

DAY 1

It was drizzling when we arrived at Banaue. Maybe this was the morning mountain drizzle??? Young men in their heavy jackets were waiting for passengers to ride their jeeps and tricycles to Bontoc or Sagada. Most of them were chewing ma-ma (I don’t know how it is called in English), giving them red stained teeth and lips so early in the morning. Perhaps chewing it gives them heat?? I don’t know. Tin and I were ushered to a blue jeep. The driver told us to wait for passengers going to Sagada. Sensing that this was different from what I have read in the magazine, I checked the mag and told Kristin to get off the jeep and ride the tricycle to the jeep terminal. The rent for the jeep would cost around P3, 000.00! And when we asked how much the fare is, the driver said it is P250/head to Sagada!

So we rode the tricycle that took us to the terminal of Bontoc-bound jeeps. The tricycle ride only cost us P10 while the jeepney ride going to Bontoc cost P135/head. We were seated together with old Bontoc women, who were in their 70’s or 80’s. Though old, they were strong women! They can still carry their heavy bags. They were friendly too. Hearing them talk made me feel like I’m an outsider. They were talking in a completely different language; I couldn’t understand a word they said! So when Tin and I were conversing in Hiligaynon, the old woman seated beside me asked me something. The only familiar word to me was “Cebuan” which I assumed that she was asking whether we were Cebuanos. And I answered Ilonggo. And the other old lady seated across us, who was in the same bus with us, said “ahhh… Tagalog.”

After 2 ½ hours of winding and sometimes bumpy roads of the mountains, we arrived in Bontoc where I bought some cold Coke and bread. The jeepney ride was made bearable by the panoramic view of the mountains! Not to mention passing by roads beside the rice terraces. I was tempted to reach out my hand and touch the rocks that were holding the terraces in place. In Bontoc, we boarded the jeep that would take us to Sagada. After 30 minutes of winding roads (again!) and scenic view of the mountains and a river, we set foot in Sagada! Ahhh…. FRESH AIR!! It has a sweet pine tree scent! The air was cool, giving me blushing cheeks! Everywhere I look, there were mountains! It seemed like the heavens and the earth met as the clouds barely touch the tip of the mountains! Right then and there, I knew that I would be coming back to this place over and over again!

We got off at the stairs leading to St. Joseph’s Resthouse. It was sitting on top of the hill. We checked in and went to register at the Tourism Office. We looked for Shamrock Café for lunch but unfortunately, it already transferred to another location and we did not have the strength to go down the stairs. So we opted to go walk a few steps north of the Tourism office and saw Masferre’s Inn and Restaurant. We were so exhausted and famished from the trip that we ordered a lemon chicken, fried chicken in orange sauce and garden salad without bothering to ask how big the serving was. Our eyes got big in surprise when our meal was served. My golly! One order can serve two persons! It’s like a quarter of one whole chicken for each of us! But then again, we were so hungry that we finished everything up to the last bite! Whoa! I also drank mountain tea which smelled and tasted like chamomile tea!

Reenergized by our power lunch, Kristin and I opted to explore the place. With a map at hand, we decided to walk to wherever our feet will take us. Our first stop was the Episcopal Church which was just right across St. Joseph’s. It has a huge bronze bell which when rang could be heard as far as the next town below. This piece of information was relayed to us by our guide Adfil (who toured us during our second day). After taking some pictures of the Church, we followed the arrow which said “To Echo Valley.” Climbing the stairs leading to the Priest’s House, and then following the arrow, we continued climbing uphill. We stopped when we thought that the hike might take as a long time (which was proven to be wrong when I used the same trail the following day) and it was already 3 or 4 in the afternoon. Instead, we decided to go to Masferre’s Photo Shop which we passed by in the morning on board the jeepney. Unfortunately, the shop was closed. We were later informed by Adfil that the pictures which can be seen there are those of the original inhabitants of Sagada, the Ifugao. Some pictures were already displayed at the restaurant where we ate our lunch. Looking at the map, we then proceeded towards the direction of the small falls. Halfway through our hike, we were welcomed by big barking dogs! And as I am very afraid of dogs (think: rabies!), we headed back to Masferre’s Photo. Sad about not seeing the small falls, we headed towards Mapiya-aw Pension House which according to a magazine has one of the best sights of rice terraces.

Mapiya-aw Pension was situated atop a hill in a secluded area. (It’s best for honeymooners!!!) It’s very private. Unfortunately, from their grounds, we could not see any magnificent view of the rice terraces. Perhaps we could see it from their rooms which were situated on the second floor.

Finally, we decided to head back to St. Joseph’s. Maybe tomorrow, we could go Somewhere.

Before going back to St. Joseph’s, we stopped by at Alfredo’s for our dinner. We ordered two plates of pasta- tuna and meat. As usual we did not bother to ask whether a serving is good for two persons. So when our waitress repeated our order as only one plate of spaghetti, we had a gut feel that their serving is BIG. And surprise, surprise! We were served two BIG plates of pasta!! A plate that could serve two-three persons! Oh well, our stomachs are bottomless pits, so we were not surprised that we were able to eat everything!! I have to commend the prompt service! Unlike in Bohol where it would take them an hour to serve your food, here, our food was served in 20 minutes (and you could hear the sound of cooking)!

So after our sumptuous and VERY filling dinner, we headed back to St. Joseph’s. It was only 7:30 in the evening. I was telling Tin that I’ll just finalize our itinerary for tomorrow then I’ll go to sleep when I already hear her sleeping soundly! I bet she did not hear a word I said! And it was only 8:00 in the evening!

Before I forget it, there is a curfew in Sagada. Light’s out at 9:00 in the evening.